Keratosis pilaris, also known as “chicken skin,” isn’t painful. It doesn’t itch, and it doesn’t spread, but it’s still one of the most common skin concerns our patients discuss with us. Why? Because it doesn’t respond to the things we’re taught to do when bumps show up on our skin. No matter how clean and careful you are, the rough patches persist.
Unlike acne or rough patches, keratosis pilaris isn’t a reactive condition caused by external factors like inflammation, barrier disruption, or environmental stress. It’s a disorder of keratinization—meaning that instead of shedding, keratin builds up and blocks the openings of hair follicles, leading to persistent roughness that doesn’t respond to typical moisturizers or exfoliants.
What Is Keratosis Pilaris?
Your skin is constantly renewing itself, creating new cells to replace older ones as they become damaged or worn out. These new cells form at the base of the epidermis and begin producing keratin as they mature. Over time, they migrate upward toward the surface. As they reach the outermost layer—the stratum corneum—they flatten, harden, and eventually shed as part of the skin’s natural exfoliation process.
Keratosis pilaris develops when that natural shedding process slows down. Instead of falling away, dead cells accumulate at the opening of the hair follicle, where they mix with keratin and form a plug. That plug creates a small, hard bump, typically the size of a pinhead and slightly raised above the surface. The bumps are usually flesh-colored but can appear red or pink in lighter skin tones and dark brown or grayish in deeper skin tones, especially when there is irritation or post-inflammatory pigmentation. When enough of these bumps cluster together, the skin develops a rough, uneven texture that can be challenging to manage with basic skincare.
KP affects an estimated 40% of adults and up to 80% of adolescents, most commonly on the upper arms, thighs, and buttocks, though it can also appear on the cheeks or forearms.
What Causes Keratosis Pilaris?
Keratosis pilaris is a hereditary condition, which means most people who develop it are genetically predisposed. If one or both of your parents have it, there is a higher likelihood that you’ll have it, too. It’s especially common in people with dry skin, eczema, or other conditions linked to barrier dysfunction.
Even though external factors don’t cause the condition, certain circumstances can make it more noticeable. Cold, dry weather often leads to increased roughness, as does friction from tight clothing or frequent shaving. The bumps may also become more visible when the skin is dehydrated or irritated, which is why KP tends to feel worse in the winter or after irritating the affected area.
For about half of those who experience KP in adolescence, the condition improves with age and may resolve entirely by adulthood. But for others, it persists. Because it’s part of how your skin functions, it isn’t something you can “fix”—but it can be managed. Dr. Elizabeth Briden at Advanced Dermatology & Cosmetic Institute can help you develop a long-term plan to support your skin and reduce its texture over time.
Treatment Options for Keratosis Pilaris
Because KP isn’t a surface-level issue, your best treatment options are going to be supporting your skin’s biology in a way that makes it less likely to form in the first place– Gentle exfoliation with barrier support.
Topical acids, such as glycolic, lactic, and salicylic, can help loosen built-up keratin and encourage more regular shedding, resulting in smoother skin over time. Unlike physical scrubs, these chemical exfoliants work gradually and evenly without scraping or damaging the skin. Urea and ammonium lactate are also excellent ingredients to look out for, as they serve as both exfoliants and humectants, meaning they attract environmental moisture into the skin. Cetaphil Exfoliating Rough & Bumpy Cream 20% Urea and NeoStrata Lotion Plus 15% AHA are excellent choices to combat keratosis pilaris. To maintain your smooth results, CeraVe S.A. Lotion for Rough & Bumpy Skin or CeraVe S.A. Cream for Rough & Bumpy Skin are effective at turning over the skin and keeping it moisturized. As an extra measure of exfoliation during treatment and maintenance, CeraVe S.A. Body Wash for Rough & Bumpy Skin.
For barrier support, hydration is key. Look for moisturizers that include lipid-rich emollients, such as ceramides, to help restore the skin’s protective layer. When combined with humectants, which attract moisture, and occlusives, which seal it in, you’re covering all three essential functions: renewing the natural lipids, attracting more moisture into your skin, and protecting that moisture from transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Keratosis Pilaris In-Office Treatments Available at ADCI
For many people, keratosis pilaris improves with consistent at-home care. However, if topical treatments aren’t making a difference, it may be time to consider in-office options available at Advanced Dermatology & Cosmetic Institute.
- Chemical Peels: Professional-strength acids like glycolic or salicylic help dissolve the keratin plugs while encouraging healthier skin turnover. These peels can also help fade any discoloration left behind by inflammation or picking.
- Red Light Therapy (GentleWaves®): A non-invasive option that may help reduce visible redness in areas where KP appears inflamed, especially in lighter skin tones.
- Microneedling with DermaPen creates controlled micro-injuries, which stimulate a healing response that encourages new collagen production and more even cell turnover. It is often used in areas where KP is most persistent, such as the upper arms or thighs, especially when topical treatments haven’t made a noticeable difference.
- Microneedling with Radiofrequency (Pixel8-RF): This treatment creates controlled micro-injuries that stimulate collagen production and smooth surface irregularities over time.
- HydraFacial®: A gentle, non-irritating option for unclogging follicles and improving skin hydration without triggering inflammation, which is especially helpful for sensitive skin.
To schedule a consultation with Dr. Elizabeth Briden or learn more about in-office treatments for KP, please reach out to schedule an appointment.
