If you’re new to skincare or are just ready to upgrade your routine after a lifetime of drugstore cleansers and moisturizers, the thought of using an acid on your face can cause a bit of apprehension.

But like all things in life, moderation and context matter. When tailored to your skin type and used in the correct ratios, acids can control everything from blemishes to fine lines.

While there’s no replacement for a dermatological consultation when it comes to selecting the best clinically tested products, we’ll help you get started with skin acids by introducing a few of the most prolific in the industry:

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid—a stable form of vitamin C—is a darling of dermatologists and aestheticians, as it is a true “jack of all trades.” It addresses multiple skin concerns in one potent active: fading dark spots, giving you a more even skin tone, boosting collagen production, and providing a powerful antioxidant shield against daily environmental free radical damage.

Best of all, it’s suitable for just about everyone! If you’re new to actives, just start with a lower concentration of around 10%, which you can increase to around 20% as your skin gets more familiar with the ingredient.

Our Favorite Ascorbic Acid Products

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is part of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family and is an incredibly effective exfoliant. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate deeply into your skin, sloughing away dead skin cells, minimizing the size of your pores, and revealing a brighter, more radiant complexion.

A 5-10% concentration is perfect for regular exfoliation, but if you’re a seasoned skincare pro, you can go up to 20% to maximize pore cleansing and stimulate elastin and collagen production. Pair it with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to keep skin balanced or with Vitamin C for an extra brightening boost.

Our Favorite Glycolic Acid Products

 

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a skin-brightening acid derived from shiitake mushrooms. It is revered for its ability to act as a tyrosinase inhibitor, which prevents the amino acid tyrosine from forming and converting into melanin. If you’ve previously considered hydroquinone to address dark spots, kojic acid is like its gentler cousin, making it a more well-tolerated combatant against hyperpigmentation.

When shopping for kojic acid, be sure it’s paired with other tyrosinase inhibitors like arbutin and bearberry for the best results. Also, remember that while it is less harsh than hydroquinone, it can still cause a reaction when it’s first introduced into your routine. Use lower concentrations in combination with soothing ingredients like aloe, chamomile, and ceramides.

Our Favorite Kojic Acid Products

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) known for its incredibly gentle but effective exfoliation, which makes it well-suited for skin that doesn’t play well with stronger options like glycolic acid. Once on the skin, it breaks down dead skin cells at the surface, leaving your complexion smoother and more radiant, but without deeper penetration that can irritate dry or sensitive skin.

In addition to its exfoliant properties, lactobionic acid is a humectant, drawing atmospheric moisture into your skin so it looks plumped and well-hydrated all day. Couple this with its antioxidant benefits, and it’s clear why lactobionic acid is one of the best acids for beginners.

Our Favorite Lactobionic Acid Products

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is another AHA with a larger molecular size that sinks into the skin more slowly than the smaller glycolic acid molecules, resulting in less irritation. It’s a favorite for those who suffer from breakouts because it can sweep away pore-clogging dead skin cells, sebum, and bacteria.

What makes it special, though, is that it also acts as an anti-inflammatory, reducing the painful swelling and redness often accompanying blemishes. We love it for our clients who want to not only diminish the evidence of previous breakouts, like post-acne marks but also prevent them from happening in the future.

Our Favorite Mandelic Acid Products

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), a class of oil-soluble acids that is particularly adept at cleaning out pores. Its ability to penetrate past the oil in your pores and truly sweep away the debris inside makes it a staple in skincare products designed explicitly with oily or breakout-prone skin in mind.

It’s a middle ground between glycolic acid and mandelic acid, as its more penetrating for deeper cleaning but also has the anti-inflammatory effect that makes angry blemishes less painful. That said, it can be drying, so it’s important to keep your skin balanced with a rich moisturizer.

Our Favorite Salicylic Acid Products

Introduce Acids Into Your Skincare Routine

Skincare acids aren’t something to avoid, but rather, something that can bring incredible benefits to your skin if you’re willing to take the time to curate the perfect mix for your needs.

Advanced Skin Therapeutics’ range of products features only the most trusted and clinically proven products, each selected under the guidance of Board-Certified dermatologist Dr. Elizabeth Briden. Shop our collection today and start your progress towards using the power of acids for brighter, healthier skin.