There seem to be so many rules to skincare these days—what you should and shouldn’t use, ingredients to avoid and which to invest in, and even the proper storage temperatures to preserve its efficacy. What you may have never thought of, however, is the order in which you’re applying those products to maximize their potency so your skin can better absorb and benefit from each product.

We’ll share the secrets to skincare layering and lay out the dermatologist-preferred order of products, from cleansers to SPF.

The Science Behind Skincare Application Order

You likely already know that your skin acts as a selectively permeable barrier, which means it lets certain things in and out depending on factors like size. To reach past the surface layers, your products must penetrate that barrier based on their various molecular sizes and consistencies, influencing how well they absorb into the skin.

Let’s start with the skin’s outer layer, the stratum corneum, the first barrier to absorption. Products with smaller molecules, like serums, can penetrate more deeply, while those with larger molecules—moisturizers, for example—sit on the surface to aid in hydration and protection. So, a good rule of thumb is to layer products from thinnest to thickest so each product can penetrate the skin without being blocked by the occlusive layers.

Here’s an example: If you apply a serum before the moisturizer, nothing is blocking its ability to deliver the rich, concentrated ingredients directly into the skin. However, starting with moisturizer creates that protective barrier that prevents your skin from absorbing the serum.

Step 1: Cleansers

You wouldn’t start painting a masterpiece on a pre-painted canvas, and you shouldn’t start your skincare routine on dirty skin, which is why the first step is removing dirt, oil, and toxins that accumulate on your skin’s surface with a cleanser. It cleans out your pores to help with absorption, too!

Choosing a cleanser with an acid, like glycolic acid or salicylic acid, will help to turnover the skin, control oil and clean out pores. Revision Skincare Brightening Facial Wash with glycolic and salicylic acid, vitamin c and licorice root, will help to exfoliates and brighten the skin, while cleaning out the pores and improving the texture. Revision Skincare Papaya Enzyme Cleanser with papaya fruit extract and salicylic acid gently turnover while nourishing with antioxidants. NeoStrata Exfoliating Wash is 8% PHA with gluconolactone and maltobionic acid, exfoliates and deep cleans the pores while revitalizing the skin with a concentration a botanicals. If you double-cleanse, we would recommend that the above cleansers be your second for maximum benefit, and that you start with a gentle cleanser, eye/face makeup remover or facial wipes.

Step 2: Toner

Even after cleansing (once), lingering impurities can remain, and toners can sweep them away while preparing your skin to absorb the actives in your serums and treatments. These water-based skincare products clean out and tighten your pores while restoring your skin to its natural pH level post-cleansing. NuCèlle Rx Mandelic Toner with Mandelic Marine Complex replenishes moisture while gently exfoliating with a touch of Mandelic Acid.

Step 3: Serums

Fast-absorbing, lightweight, and with a high concentration of active ingredients, serums are designed to directly target skin issues like signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and more. Their very small molecular size lets them penetrate deeply into the skin, delivering potent actives where they are most needed.

Some of our favorite skin-loving ingredients in serums include:

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 &/or Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: Known as “BOTOX in a bottle,” Acetyl hexapeptide-1 & Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 are peptides that inhibit neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions and improve skin tone and luminosity. Experience them in Revision Skincare D·E·J Daily Boosting Serum™. Which is a serum that goes on the entire face and before any other products. As it boosts the skin’s cellular energy, makes all the other products work even better. SkinCeuticals Cell Cycle Catalyst is also a serum that goes on first before any other products. It gently turns over the skin with it’s multi-layer acid complex to improve discoloration and visible wrinkles. Another serum formulated with these peptide, along with 7 others, hyaluronic acid and LineRelax Technology™, is Revision Skincare Revox Line Relaxer. It reduces expression lines around the eyes, mouth and forehead and enhances the effects of a neuromodulator.
  • Vitamin C: An antioxidant that brightens your skin and promotes collagen production for a more youthful, radiant complexion. The Gold Standard in Vitamin C serums with 15% L-ascorbic acid is SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic, SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF and SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF (10%). For the more sensitive, try Revision Skincare C+ Correcting Complex 30% with patent-pending MelaPATH® technology and 30% pure THD Ascorbate. NeoStrata 15% Vitamin C + PHA Serum is 15 % L-ascorbic acid paired with Gluconolactone, a Polyhydroxy Acid, which gently exfoliates.
  • Vitamin K: This vitamin’s role in blood clotting makes it an excellent serum active for post-procedure bruising and wound healing. Try it in Revision Skincare® Vitamin K Serum.
  • Hyaluronic acid: A super hydrating molecule that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water for deep, long-lasting hydration. Give your skin a drink with Revision Skincare® Hydrating Serum or SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel. Looking for that hydration with treatment, try SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier, a hyaluronic serum with 10 % proxylane™ to maintain the skin’s hyaluronic levels while purple rice extract and licorice root plump and firm.
  • Lactobionic Acid: A gently exfoliating PHA with a large molecular size to minimize irritation in those with sensitive skin. Try it in NEOSTRATA ®️ Bionic Face Serum.
  • Retinol: Applied in the evening only. This vitamin A derivative is an anti-aging darling. It accelerates cell turnover to reduce fine lines and improve skin texture. Try it in Revision Skincare Retinol Complete 0.5, Revision Skincare 1.0 or  NEOSTRATA®️ Potent Retinol Complex.

 

Step 4: Eye Cream

If you’ve ever woken up after too few hours of sleep and felt that you looked years older, it is likely due to fatigue’s impact on the thin, delicate skin around your eyes. The signs of aging appear here first, bringing along issues like a crepe-y texture and hyperpigmentation.

Many eye creams contain caffeine as a primary ingredient because they’re excellent at constructing blood vessels to reduce under-eye puffiness and dark circles. However, that’s not your only option.

For example, Revision Skincare D·E·J eye cream® is formulated with Bioavailable peptides, THD, blend of 5 antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and more to provide intensive hydration and long-term moisture retention to reduce sagging, wrinkles, redness, and hooding for a younger, firmer look. NeoStrata Intensive Eye Repair is created with caffeine, NeoGlucosamine®️, Apple Stem Cell Extract and more to combat visible signs of aging for a more youthful appearance. SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Advanced Eye is formulated

Eye cream formulas are typically thinner than other moisturizers, so you’ll want to layer them before heavier creams and lotions so the area receives the targeted care it needs.

Step 5: Moisturizer

After you’ve applied all of the thinner treatments that need close contact with the skin’s surface, it’s time to seal in all of the goodness with a medical-grade moisturizer.

That rule applies to everyone, even those with oily skin. The amount of sebum that your skin produces correlates with its moisture balance– When your skin is dehydrated, it compensates by producing even more oil to protect itself.

The moisturizer you choose will vary based on your skin type and the season. Those with dry skin will want a thicker cream formula in the winter and a mid-weight lotion in the summer. On the other hand, year-round, lightweight, oil-free lotions might be best if you have oily skin to avoid your moisturizer feeling heavy or greasy.

An excellent moisturizer to balance sebum and inflammation from acne, while brightening and minimizing pores is SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment. For a luxurious, rich moisturizer that delivers hydration and anti-aging, indulge in SkinCeuitals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 with a hint of lavender to calm your senses.

Step 6: Sunscreen

Your AM skincare routine should always end with a generous layer of SPF, regardless of the season, the weather, or what you plan to do that day. UV rays can penetrate through clouds on overcast days and windows when you’re planning to stay indoors, so neglecting your daily sunscreen leaves you vulnerable to the premature signs of aging and, more importantly, the chance of developing skin cancer.

We discuss the differences between types of sun protection in our blog, “SPF Reapplication Rules for a Sun-Safe Summer,” but to quickly review: Wear at least SPF 30 with broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

NeoStrata Sheer Hydration SPF 40 with NeoGlucosamin® diminishes dark spots, provides hydration, and SPF. NeoStrata Matrix Support with SynerG Formula 8.0, peptides, NeoGlucosamin® and other proprietary ingredients, repairs and strengthens skin, plumps and firms, stimulates collagen, all while providing sun protection with an SPF 30. Revision Skincare Intellishade, available in 5 formulas, corrects, protects, conceals, brightens and hydrates skin to deliver clinically-proven results. This 5-in-1 moisturizer features over 20 age-defying ingredients, broad-spectrum SPF45-50 protection plus a universal tint in 3 formulas for an instant glow.

SkinCeuticals offers offers sheer, barely there, SPF available tinted and clear.

From there, you can proceed with your foundation and the rest of your makeup routine.

Not sure if your skincare layering techniques are up to snuff? Want to learn more about the products that best suit your skin? We’d love to chat about your concerns! Stop in at Advanced Skin Therapeutics to review our lineup of dermatologist-approved skincare or get recommendations tailored to your beauty routine.